Tags
Breadmaking, Cucina Italiana, Cucina Pugliese, Dalla terra alla tavola, Pane e Salute, Pugliese Traditions, Southern Italy
Pane e Salute is a ‘forno a paglia’, a straw burning bread oven that has been in continuous operation since 1526. This month it celebrates 500 years. The forno is a part of the social and cultural history of Orsara di Puglia. I believe this is the only straw oven and oldest working oven in Puglia. Ownership has changed many times over half a millenium, but the forno has always remained in use.
At one time, women prepared dough at home and formed it into loaves. They rolled a dishrag into a donut to place on their head. for support. The loaves were carried on the womens’ heads on a spianatoia, a pasta making board, to the neighbourhood ‘forno di communità’. This was a collective or community oven where the bread was baked. Before baking, the loaves were also imprinted with a wooden stamp as a way to distinguish which family the bread belonged to once it came out of the oven. For women, the forno di communità was a place for social interaction and community. In fact, even the lievito, the starter, was collective. The last person to make dough would pinch off and keep a piece to give the next family to use as a starter. Mamma told me that when she was very young, she was sent into the street to call out ‘à crisctor’ (literally, ‘the grower’) to find out who had it!
Today Pane e Salute, which means ‘bread and health’, is run by the Di Biccari family. Angelo Di Biccari is the maestro del pane along with his 3 sons. The secret ingredient is the lievito madre, ‘mother yeast’ or starter which has been in the family and regenerating constantly for over 100 yrs. The lievito is fed every 2 days. Bread is now baked only once a week, on Fridays.
The dough is made with a flour mixture that is 70% Senatore Cappelli, a grain created in the early 1900’s by wheat agronomist Nazareno Strampelli from ancient Mediterranean grains. In Orsara, this wheat is known as ‘Strambell’ after the creator. It is grown mostly in Puglia, Basilicata and Sardegna. Senatore Cappelli grain has a high protein content (14-15%) and is rich in antioxidants, Selenium, B vitamins, magnesium and iron. It also has a less complex gluten structure, making it more digestible and a lower glycemic index. Since it is a tall grain, it is less susceptible to weeds, so is usually farmed organically.
The dough is formed into in 3-4 kg rounds, given the sign of the cross, and left to rise in cloth covered straw baskets. Straw goes into the bottom door of the forno and heat comes up the central hole, called ‘la bocca del inferno’.
Foto from Pane e Salute website
When the forno is hot enough, the loaves are baked for 2- 2 ½ hours and then placed on the horizontal ladders to cool. The bread comes out crusty, with a soft inside and has a long shelf life of 15 days. The straw burning oven gives it a unique taste. The bread sells for €5 per kilo and it is best to pre-order.
Pane e Salute is also a pizzeria and restaurant, serving traditional Orsarese dishes, such as pancotto e patate. The restaurant consists of the forno plus 2 other rooms, and has a cozy, rustic look. In the winter, salsicce hang from the ceiling to dry in the room with the forno. In the summer, there are tables under an archway and in the narrow street with fairy lights. Fun fact…..in the 1970’s, my nonni lived above this archway! Pizza is made with the same bread dough, but is cooked in a pizza oven in the kitchen, not in the 1526 forno. My favourite is the salsiccia e fichi (sausage and fresh figs) pizza.
Pane e Salute also has community events, such as ‘Piccoli fornai’ (little bakers) for bambini aged 7 and up to make bread, pizza, taralli and pizze fritte. Last summer, I attended a bread making demo and an orecchiette making workshop during the Festa del Pane.
Pane e Salute Via Caracciolo 13, Orsara di Puglia 39 327 795 956 Hours seasonal, but usually open Friday to Sunday.
Ciao, Cristina
Un po' di pepe 